By Manish Puri.
Once I began to put on extra tailor-made clothes – and it gained’t shock you to study that coincided with after I started to learn PS frequently – it appeared to me that the epitome of magnificence was the flexibility to combine darker jackets with lighter colored trousers.
The digital manscape was awash with pictures of good-looking Italians, strapping Swedes and impossibly stylish Japanese males sporting creamy flannels, pale gray Fresco and taupe twills on their decrease half.
And, whilst just lately as final 12 months, Derek Man (in a publish distilling model classes from Seinfeld’s George Costanza) advocated for “darkish high; gentle bottoms”.
I attempted, Derek. I actually did.
Each time a chance to put on non-corporate tailor-made clothes introduced itself, I’d dutifully trial varied mixtures and permutations, earlier than predictably falling again on what felt most comfy to me: darkish sneakers, darkish trousers and a lightweight color up high.
It appeared like a reasonably unremarkable (and even uninteresting) desire. It was solely when Gianluca Migliarotti (above, proper) who’s stellar at pairing darkish sober colors on high with lighter, extra expressive trousers, complimented me on the best way I combined lighter jackets with darkish trousers, that I realised I may need one thing verging on a style-signature. (Okay, it’s no watch over a shirt cuff, however even Agnelli needed to begin someplace!)
However why did I gravitate in the direction of darker trousers within the first place? I’ll try to reply that query on this article.
Now, in doing so, there’s sure to be a component of post-purchase rationalisation at play: isn’t the search for private model usually about stumbling on what feels proper and telling a reasonably story about it later?
However I imagine the desire was ingrained by my early forays into classical menswear, the place I discovered my finest purchases had been sensible, versatile and, to a sure diploma, inconspicuous.
Charcoal trousers (particularly) ticked all three bins, and that’s why they’re referenced a lot on this article. However related reasoning holds for darkish inexperienced, brown and blue trousers.
After all, with time and a few experimentation, I’ve come to embrace a paler backside [note to self: must rephrase that before publishing]. However regardless of my shift, it appears to me that within the interim the prevailing winds of style have began to blow gently in my path.
Don’t imagine me? Check out the PS Lookbook – an excellent useful resource, not only for outfit inspiration, however for seeing how even everlasting model can evolve. There’s been a marked change in color gradient through the years, with much less distinction between high and backside in addition to extra darkish bottoms combined with gentle tops.
For instance, in 2017, Simon paired his chocolate suede bomber with stone chinos and white trainers, however in 2023 they’re changed by charcoal flannels and black tassel loafers.
Or take two beautiful informal outfits worn on the summer time version of Pitti: in 2019 Simon fixes the darkish colors up high, whereas in 2023 it’s inverted.
The extra generous-natured amongst you would possibly say, “Bravo, Manish! You’re clearly a person forward of his time!”
Alas, a extra exact summation of my “trendsetting” is obtainable by Junior Soprano in one in every of my all-time favorite strains from the present: “Some persons are up to now behind in a race that they really imagine they’re main”.
Anyway, I hope my ideas show useful to readers, particularly those that are comparatively new to basic menswear, and infrequently ask how they’ll introduce smarter garments to their wardrobe. Let’s begin the dissection from the bottom up.
Black sneakers
Lengthy earlier than the menswear cognoscenti decreed that it was alright to put on black once more, I’ve held a powerful desire for black sneakers. That type of is smart as a result of, for many of my life, it’s what I’ve been instructed to pair trousers with – college and the workplace being the principal enforcers of the mix.
However the reality is, I might have worn extra brown sneakers at any level within the final 20 years. Over that point, workplace costume codes haven’t a lot relaxed as popped a few Valium and placed on a Bob Marley file, and the “no brown on the town” rule is about as rigorously noticed as a VAR resolution.
So my reluctance to put on brown can’t actually be blamed on something beside my very own “spectrum of worries”. Or extra precisely, the dizzying spectrum of selection: oak, vintage, chestnut, museum, walnut. Am I shopping for sneakers or constructing a cupboard? All fantastic colors and, with my menswear newbie’s luck, all assured to be an ever-so-slightly totally different shade to what I truly needed.
However black is black, with little margin for error – a vital (if unrealistic) principle after I began my menswear journey. And so, throughout my tassels, pennys, lace-ups and slippers, black dominates. After all I’m a bit extra assured now, and I do personal brown sneakers; I actually just like the John Lobb Lopez in darkish brown museum calf – however even that’s fairly black.
Darkish trousers
Having pitched my tent within the black sneakers camp, probably the most pure and versatile trouser associate gave the impression to be both mid-grey (above) or charcoal. I believe taupe-coloured trousers may also look fairly stylish with black sneakers, however there’s two the explanation why charcoal often prevailed.
The primary is that charcoal simply appeared rather less menswear-y. Check out most guys round you, and virtually definitely they will be carrying one thing very darkish on their backside half. So, to my eyes a minimum of, even one thing comparatively darkish like mid-grey stood out in a non-sartorial crowd.
Whereas charcoal, though notionally a better color, appeared higher at hiding in plain sight. Seated at a desk within the dimly lit nook of a neighborhood pub, my trousers would possibly simply be mistaken for washed black denim. After all, the dainty loafers, one-inch belt and double pleats would finally give the sport away, however I’d go a sniff take a look at.
The second issue: charcoal is extra of a workhorse. All of us settle for that one of many keys to the longevity of a high quality wardrobe is to not hammer your garments on daily basis. Brush them, cling them and provides them the occasional time off. However that logic was usually overpowered by the zeal of this explicit menswear beginner: I like these trousers, I’ve paid good cash for these trousers, therefore I shall put on these trousers.
And charcoal appeared higher at hiding these tell-tale indicators of extreme put on: creases and the odd spillage (glowing water, possibly a cold-pressed juice, by no means beer). So it was a sensible choice that allowed me to get comfy with tailor-made garments, with out feeling like I wanted to exit and instantly splurge on one other pair to maintain up appearances.
Lighter tops
Lastly we transfer to the torso.
The sheer darkness of the underside half naturally lends itself to greater distinction seems, and I keep {that a} high-contrast look is without doubt one of the best methods for a man growing their model to make a powerful visible impression with minimal fuss.
For instance, I’m nonetheless to be satisfied {that a} good semi-smart summer time outfit for many males requires greater than darkish high-twist trousers, a cream linen shirt unbuttoned to at least one gap under the place you are feeling comfy, and an adjunct – a hoop, watch, necklace – that feels private to you.
In winter, charcoal flannels, a heavy white oxford-cloth shirt and your higher layer of selection – denim trucker, chore coat, knitwear, blazer or leather-based jacket (above, from Bryceland’s) – ought to equally see you thru most eventualities.
Granted, these aren’t probably the most adventurous seems, however my ambition has all the time been to subtly enhance my model, not get noticed by WWD.
The final consider help of a lighter high is perhaps probably the most private. As somebody with darker pores and skin and a good darker beard, I all the time favored the distinction they provide. Give me a haircut, a bathe and a crisp white shirt and I really feel boxfresh.
After all, as my beard slowly turns snow white, it’ll be fascinating to see if my place flip flops. Count on to learn an article from me extolling the virtues of black shirts in 2028!
The outfits
Lastly, a fast phrase on the three outfits (the place the one merchandise I’ve modified is the trousers) – shot by Alex at Pitti.
The jacket is MTM from J. Mueser, made up in a Harris tweed from Campbell’s of Beauly, and the shirt and tie are from Bryceland’s. Simon has lined a few commissions from J. Mueser, so I’ll simply add that I’ve discovered their jackets very easy to put on. A clear, easy Neapolitan-inspired model with no ingredient dominating one other.
The charcoal trousers and the pale gray are each from The Anthology – the latter pair being my first ever bespoke trousers from them, in order that they’re a bit slimmer than my common reduce.
The mid to darkish gray trousers are the Aleks mannequin from Package Blake – a model I’ve beforehand lined right here. I nonetheless advocate them as well-priced RTW choice to anybody in search of a fuller reduce. They’re made out of a 12oz Italian flannel, which feels very comfy to put on, however (as you possibly can see from a number of the photographs) did flap a couple of bit on a blustery afternoon.
My private desire is for a heavier material (The Anthology trousers are between 14oz and 18oz), however I’ve been instructed by Package Blake that they plan to launch heavier material variations sooner or later, which is welcome information for me.
I hope the three seems assist illustrate how a lot distinction the trousers could make, and I current them largely with out remark – by this level within the article, you must know which iteration I favor! Nonetheless, I’d be actually to listen to which one readers like and why.
That mentioned, there are two ideas on the pictures that I’d wish to share.
First, whereas I believe the charcoal trousers work finest with black sneakers and the sunshine gray with brown (sadly, I didn’t pack any to alter into), the Package Blake trousers would sit nicely with both – one other strike for the flexibility of mid-grey.
My second musing pertains to the extent to which style is formed by our bodily setting. In London, the place the black tarmac appears completely rain-slicked and the air itself can really feel gray, darkish sneakers and trousers appear much less of a mode selection and extra of a visible echo.
Nonetheless, in opposition to the lambent sandstone streets of Florence, even I need to humbly concede, the sunshine gray trousers (which I often put on the least) look bloody beautiful.
Manish is @the_daily_mirror on Instagram
Florence pictures by Alex Natt
