What’s a ‘caban’ coat? Nicely, it is meant various things at completely different time limits, but it surely has a specific that means as a sartorial model of a pea coat in Naples. 

The caban was initially one thing European sailors known as a coat they noticed being worn by Barbary pirates (or corsairs). The corsairs’ phrase was ‘qaba’ and it was extra of a cloak-like piece they wore at sea. 

European sailors needed one thing related, however they turned it into a totally buttoned coat – and this was the origin of what we all know because the pea coat, whose identify got here from a Frisian phrase for the material. 

Pea coats, or reefers, turned widespread at sea from the 18th century onwards, as European navies launched uniforms and the coats proved to be so sensible. There have been completely different variations over time and between navies, and officers usually had longer or extra elaborate variations (eg with gold buttons). 

This historical past is why the time period ‘caban’ remains to be used for a pea coat in some locations, together with France (any native readers, do fill us in on this). However as I mentioned, in Naples the caban is a bit completely different. 

These items are by no means as common or constant as we wish them to be, however on the whole a Neapolitan caban is a extra sartorial model. 

The plain distinction is that the button configuration is extra much like a double-breasted coat. It appears to be like like an everyday 6×2 set on the entrance (six exhibiting, two of these buttoning) however really all three rows button, with the lapel curving outwards to make this doable. 

There’s then a single button beneath the collar, to lock it, much like many polo coats. So there’s mainly one row of buttons lacking in comparison with a pea coat, plus one much less on the highest row. 

The pockets are additionally often extra like a tailor-made coat.

Pea coats almost at all times have slash pockets – diagonal ones to stuff your fingers into simply – and no breast pocket. A Neapolitan caban has the everyday ‘barchetta’ (boat-shaped) breast pocket of a tailor-made coat, after which flapped or patch pockets on the hips. 

The collar and lapels are smaller, with a smaller wrap – extra much like an ulster. And there are sometimes some sartorial particulars, similar to additional pleats within the again and hand-sewn ending.  

I’ve heard completely different explanation why the Neapolitan caban exists and is standard, however one which actually is smart is that it’s hardly ever chilly sufficient to put on a full coat. A shorter one provides you all the heat you want – as nicely in fact the enjoyment of sporting a coat-like outer layer. 

Above is one made by Sartoria Solito, for the shirtmaker Luca Avitabile. 

The Luca Museo one I had made is a bit of completely different, most clearly within the hip pockets, that are flapped, slanted and add a ticket pocket. Chan at Luca Museo labored at Sartoria Pirozzi in Naples, and it’s this he makes for his or her purchasers in Korea and elsewhere.

Different variations in Naples range extra considerably – Sartoria Ciardi, for instance, makes a caban that is single-breasted and has extra of a shirt collar. The one issues it actually has in widespread with the others are the blue color and shorter size. 

After I visited Seoul final yr, Luca Museo (above) have been eager to make me a few issues to point out what they might do – this and a navy go well with. As I made clear once I reviewed that go well with, nonetheless, these have been issues they needed to make their manner. 

These lengthy, barely skinny flapped pockets are the design level I’d change on my caban coat, actually now I’ve worn it for a bit. I don’t assume I’d go for patch pockets – just like the Solito – however I’d most likely select extra common, straight flaps. 

The fabric of my one is a thick wool, which is gorgeous, however it’s black. That’s not one thing I’d naturally go for, however given I’ve by no means had a black coat earlier than, I am going to wait and see how I discover it with different issues within the wardrobe. 

The brown-corozo buttons Luca Museo selected work surprisingly nicely: I would not usually decide mid-brown to go along with black. However which may even be one thing I alter in the long term. 

Elsewhere although the coat is gorgeous. The match is nice – the go well with they made was very massive within the chest and shoulders, however that is extra average. And the opposite factor I’m hesitant about with Luca Museo, their decide stitching, is much less outstanding right here on the darkish, thick materials. 

It’s pretty having a extra informal piece like this made bespoke, as you actually discover the three-dimensional construction. It feels moulded. I feel that’s most likely the factor I’ve appreciated most since sporting the coat. 

By the best way, apologies for the darkness of the photographs – the sunshine was going rapidly that day, regardless of being barely 3pm. That is the issue with capturing in winter. Hopefully you may nonetheless make out the small print. 

The opposite garments are:

• A black Rubato lambswool crewneck
• PS black watch cap
• PS pure Arran scarf
• Brown flannel trousers (Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Fox material)
• Darkish-brown suede boots, Galway from Edward Inexperienced 

Value: $2,800. Extra on Luca Museo right here.