Kolor sparked recent power with the debut assortment from new artistic director Taro Horiuchi, who made his runway debut this season.
In January, founder Junichi Abe stepped down after 21 years on the helm, and subsequently named Horiuchi his successor. The appointment was each long-in-the making and, maybe, destiny. Horiuchi first met Abe again in 2007, shortly after graduating from the Royal Academy of Tremendous Arts Antwerp. He had wandered right into a showroom being arrange by “some Japanese man,” as he recalled. That man turned out to be Abe. The 2 saved in contact ever since.
Within the interim, Horiuchi launched an eponymous label in addition to the secondary line TH Merchandise, collaborated with manufacturers like Diesel, Muji Labo, and Descente Allterrain, and was honored with the Mainichi Vogue Grand Prix New Designer Award at Tokyo Vogue Week. Abe saved an eye fixed on Horiuchi’s work, and invited him to attend Kolor runway reveals over time.
Now, the Kolor catwalk is Horiuchi’s.
For his debut, Horiuchi delved into the model’s archives, finding out Abe’s signature method to proportion, layering and daring colour mixtures. He additionally explored the model’s in depth material library for a tackle texture.
Having moved to London on the age of 15, Horiuchi says his design perspective bridges two worlds. “I’ve a mixture of Japanese tradition and European tradition,” he defined. His life overseas gave him a little bit of an outsider view of Japan, and he adopted fashion and cultural developments there as “virtually a overseas nation,” which knowledgeable his method to finding out Kolor’s DNA.
Horiuchi remained devoted to Kolor’s home codes, mixing trend with practical utility reminiscent of nylon windbreakers, cargo shorts, and sporty bra tops within the assortment.
The bizarre colour pairing of acid yellow and chartreuse labored with out feeling too forceful, but punched by way of an autumnal palette of khaki and browns.
He additionally tried extra experimental items, reminiscent of a buoyant tulle prepare suspended from a swim ring, pillowy half-moon shapes on the hips of voluminous skirts, and dip-dyed skirts oozing with colour. A lightweight parka featured a mottled pastel print, whereas metallic silver surfaced in shorts, sneakers, and trench coats.
Whisper-thin summer-weight wools layered over button-downs added delicate distinction, channeling a refined ’90s minimalism. Brief jackets featured cutouts on the again for added breathability.
Backpacks got here full of ample pockets and straps for added city utility, or maybe probably the most glamorous tenting journey on the planet.
Kolor has lengthy had a powerful footing in menswear, Horiuchi famous. However whereas womenswear has appeared on the runway, he hopes to construct it right into a defining power for the model.
Wanting forward, Horiuchi will proceed designing his personal label whereas helming Kolor. The longer term is as vibrant because the flurouescents on the runway.
