By Paul Croughton
Not so way back, Simon and I have been discussing watches – particularly what would make a ‘Everlasting Fashion watch’. As each a PS reader of nicely over a decade and a watch fanatic and collector, I noticed this as a welcome, if harmful, alternative to get sucked down a rabbit gap.
It was additionally an opportunity to focus on some lesser-known choices, somewhat than the extra generally seen classics resembling JLC’s Reverso, the Cartier Tank or a Patek Calatrava.
They’re all so broadly recognised as icons of fine style that they’re clearly PS-type watches.
However earlier than we debate what precisely the watches is likely to be, let’s set up a definition.
To qualify, a ‘PS watch’ should tick a number of packing containers. Most clearly it ought to have type – an understated magnificence, by which I imply design language that leans in direction of simplicity, although there’ll all the time be magic within the particulars.
Second, dimension issues – there will likely be no dinner plates right here. The development for 44mm watches and above appears to be fading in favour of mid-sized or smaller timepieces. This, IMHO, is an effective factor (see: magnificence, above).
Meaning for the needs of this text we’re going to slim our parameters to decorate watches (historically in valuable metals, though metal is more and more in style) somewhat than sports activities watches. This doesn’t imply that sports activities watches on steel bracelets aren’t nice – in fact they’re. There might even be a follow-up piece there sooner or later. Simon’s classic Rolex GMT is improbable, for instance. However for now, we’re trending extra formal.
What else? Some extent of distinction, a component of rarity (as a result of the PS reader naturally shies away from the mass-produced) and the standard of make will likely be paramount. This performs into sustainability: much more than with bespoke tailoring, a well-made, well-cared-for watch ought to outlast its wearer. In all probability many wearers.
So these are our tips. Lastly, a phrase on value. Excessive-end watches are costly, more and more so over the previous few years. So I’ve intentionally picked some which might be, in relative watch phrases, on the cheaper aspect; the remaining decidedly aren’t.
These are my private preferences – I’m a great distance from suggesting these are the one watches price having. However I hope readers who admire the technical experience that’s poured into the making of a go well with can do the identical for the manufacture of a timepiece. Proper, sufficient spiel. On to the watches.
£10,300
Grand Seiko is the watch nerd’s little secret. The premium, artisan youthful sibling of the Japanese behemoth that’s Seiko, GS has a repute for excessive accuracy, distinctive ending… and garbage names.
The very first thing you discover concerning the SLGW003 (see what I imply?) is the textured dial, impressed by the bark of the white birch timber that develop close to the GS studio in northern Japan. Whereas a clear enamel dial is a fantastic factor, I’m a sucker for refined dial ornament, and I like how GS makes use of nature as its guiding inspiration (take a look at its snowflake dial).
Different little particulars please me: the titanium case’s brushed bezel echoes the birch’s stripes, whereas GS’s signature Zaratsu sharpening on the lugs creates crisp distinction. On the technical aspect, the manual-winding motion provides you an 80-hour energy reserve, so you’ll be able to take it off after work on Friday and it’ll nonetheless be going robust on Monday even should you’ve worn one thing else all weekend.
£13,500
The unbiased Tokyo-based Naoya Hida launched in 2018. Its three-man group contains its eponymous founder, and collectively they’ve produced fewer than 200 items throughout a handful of various kinds.
The Kind 1D is a up to date twist on classic watches from the Forties and Fifties, a interval that many think about the golden age of chic watch design. The 37mm case is comprised of powerful 904L metal (utilized by Rolex, that is recognised each for its anti-corrosive qualities and for being a nightmare to machine) whereas the dial is a stable chunk of German silver.
Full disclosure: I’ve one in all these and within the steel, as watch nerds say, the cursive Breguet numerals are actually stunning – all of the extra for being carved freehand by one particular person. Think about making an attempt to chip out these numbers with nothing however a micro chisel and a magnifying glass. Like a Milanese buttonhole, the wonder is within the element and the extent of craftmanship is, frankly, ridiculous. [See video at the bottom of this article.]
The one factor I’m much less eager on right here is the strap. I’m not a fan of distinction stitching, so I put on mine on plain black crocodile or tan leather-based, and it really works a deal with.
3. The Armoury by Paulin Modul A Hong Kong II
£600 (approx)
This collaboration between The Armoury, whom readers will know very nicely, and small Glaswegian watch model Paulin, has quite a bit going for it.
Whereas the inexperienced dial isn’t precisely easy, I’m drawn to its uncommon configuration. It’s a riff on what’s often called a California dial, created within the Thirties and utilized by pilots throughout World Conflict II as a result of its error-proof configuration of Roman numerals up prime and Arabic ones beneath. I’ve all the time cherished them; they make me smile each time I flip my wrist.
This model switches in Chinese language characters on the underside half, making it that rather more uncommon, whereas the metal C-shaped case is a refined level of distinction that’s simple to miss. At 35mm it’s surprisingly understated, and the suede strap is a good way of creating a costume watch much less formal.
I’d use this as a characterful journey watch: one thing cheery to throw on then neglect about, and never fear if it acquired a bit bashed round.
£1,230 approx
Serica is a brand new unbiased model from France that has, till now, targeted on sturdy device watches.
Its newest launch is a dramatic departure: minimal and monochrome, it has an uncommon ‘stadium’ case (so referred to as as a result of it seems like a sports activities stadium from above). There are apparent parallels to Patek Philippe’s well-known Ellipse right here, however in fact this can be a extra muscular imaginative and prescient of the type of piece historically worn with black tie or at a cocktail occasion.
The 35mm brushed-steel case is in line with Serica’s again catalogue, however the guilloche (engraving) on the dial and small hour markers give it an uptown look, enhanced by a slim automated motion.
Just like the Paulin above that is actually not for everybody – however should you admire classic watches however need one thing extra strong, otherwise you’re after one thing uncommon and sudden, this could possibly be for you. The primary 250 of 500 will likely be out there in March.
£22,700
Chopard is an unbiased agency that makes glamorous jewellery and numerous kinds of watches, not all of which I like. However once I noticed this one at Watches & Wonders in Geneva (the horological equal of Pitti) it stood out a mile.
There’s a horny high-low factor occurring: you’ve acquired that stylish salmon-coloured gold dial with guilloche sample, and, just like the 1D above, a sub-seconds dial. The motion seems stunning via the open caseback, too.
However the metal 36.5mm case and gray calfskin strap cease it from coming off as overly fancy. It’s a bit like carrying a denim shirt below a flannel go well with; there’s a quiet confidence right here, a willingness to be slightly totally different.
Talking of garments, that is one other watch that works nicely with informal put on, however it could look sensational peeking out from below the cuff of a double-breasted, chalk-stripe go well with. It screams – albeit it very quietly – sophistication.
5. Cartier Tank Should SolarBeat
£3,150
Sure, I do know I stated I wouldn’t embody a Tank, however this one’s slightly totally different because of one thing hidden behind these well-known Roman numerals. It’s a photo voltaic panel, which costs the quartz battery so it solely wants changing as soon as each 16 years. Sixteen years! Not that you simply’d know: to any informal observer it’s only a traditional Tank, however in metal somewhat than gold.
A Tank is supremely versatile, nearly as good with a classic jungle jacket as with tailoring, so this can be a low-maintenance, go in all places possibility. It is available in two sizes on a leather-look plant-based strap – though one of many nice issues a few Tank is how nicely it takes to all types of different straps. I’ve even seen them look good on NATO army bands.
It is a high-tech twist on a traditional, and one of many best methods into arguably the classiest, most design-focused watch model.
Paul Croughton is a journalist and editor who has been writing about type, journey and luxurious for 25 years. He’s run magazines within the UK and US, most not too long ago as editor in chief of Robb Report in New York.
