When Saman Amel launched overshirts – or shirt-jackets as they name them – a few years in the past I used to be to attempt one. Not many individuals do made-to-measure for less complicated issues like overshirts, and so for the extra luxe-oriented buyer there was a chance there to get one thing higher fitted and somewhat personalised.

Saman and Dag apparently resisted the class for fairly some time. To them, centered for therefore lengthy on tailoring, an overshirt appeared like a lazy various to a jacket – the sort of factor somebody wore after they didn’t actually perceive how comfy and stylish a blazer might be. 

However they noticed their prospects sporting them lots, and ultimately discovered a producer that was making extra informal items like this at a very excessive degree. Though, speaking to them, it really looks like the primary factor that offered them was the supplies – there’s numerous potential with one thing unstructured like a shirt jacket, and the model now provide all the pieces from brushed cashmere to heavy silk, high-twist wool to textured linen. It is a distinctive and weird vary – that is the linen and a child wire beneath.

One factor that’s really modified fairly quietly in recent times is that the blokes now develop much more of their very own supplies. They was once closely Loro Piana-focused, however as their concepts have grown they’ve put money and time into growing exclusives. The heavy silk and brushed cashmere are each a part of that. 

There are many choices to discover with the overshirts, however they basically have the identical modern, minimalist look. That is very Saman Amel after all, however it’s additionally one thing they wished to emphasize in order that the shirts would transfer far-off from extra informal or workwear connotations. 

They wished a black-cashmere overshirt, for instance, to be one thing a buyer would really feel comfy sporting at a wise night occasion, maybe with a effective knit beneath. That’s how I’ve discovered my brown one works finest too – with issues just like the black knit and charcoal trousers pictured. 

The match of my overshirt I’d describe nearly as good if in case you have points with physique size and sleeve size. However it’s not likely much like the match of a made-to-measure jacket, or a bespoke shirt. 

For instance with mine, I attempted on a measurement and we made small tweaks to the waist, the physique size and sleeve size. We then had a becoming the place the shoulders had been lifted up barely, to deal somewhat with how a lot mine slope. 

However the shirt nonetheless has numerous wrinkling and folds happening – in comparison with say a bespoke shirt. 

I’ve actually adored sporting it nonetheless. The cashmere feels unbelievable, in all probability the nicest I’ve ever tried, and in that means is much like the hand-framed sweater I had from them just a few years in the past. It is expensive, however you are reminded of the standard each time you set it on. 

It is a 300g cashmere, however feels thicker and hotter due to the end, which entails washing and brushing the material repeatedly. The consequence has a refined lustre, which was once more deliberate – it means the shirt feels that a lot dressier, somewhat just like the deerskin used on their Metropolis Mocs. Not tremendous shiny, however a great distance from a extra informal shoe or shirt materials. 

I’ve discovered the overshirt works effectively as a jacket various in my ‘casual-chic’ mode of dressing – on the town in the course of the week, however not essentially sensible for a gathering. 

I normally layer it over a knit or knitted T-shirt, ranging in weight from an Anthology cotton one, to a Best Crewneck, to the two-ply Cashmere Crewneck pictured. That plus a cashmere watch cap is heat sufficient for lots of climate, and it nonetheless feels dressed up. 

The alternatives on design are largely about collar, hem form and pocket model. You’ll be able to have an everyday turn-down collar or somewhat stand one; one or two chest pockets; patches, welts or flaps; and a hem that’s curved or straight. 

I went for an everyday collar and two flapped pockets, with a straight hem. You can even have one or two inner pockets on the reverse of the chest ones, buttoned or not. 

I used to be somewhat uncertain on the flapped pockets, because the flaps are fairly giant, and bulkier on this cashmere.  However on reflection I feel it was the appropriate alternative: welts would have been too uncommon and patches too easy. 

I used to be equally uncertain in regards to the hem, and even after I obtained the shirt I assumed a curved one would have been higher. However I feel now the straight hem helps it really feel extra jacket-like. In a lighter materials I might in all probability have it curved. 

The one factor I stay uncertain of is the buttons. These are small, gray mother-of-pearl, and though very elegant, they’re somewhat laborious to lock with the thick cashmere. Maybe a barely chunkier button could be an fascinating various. 

Costs vary from €900 to €2500, with cashmere the costliest and linen and cotton the most cost effective. Excessive-twist wool and silk are €1200 and €1500 respectively. If anybody’s within the course of the corporate as an entire, which after all displays on the pricing, the interview I did with Dag final yr may be useful. 

I feel whereas some may need to regulate expectations round match, the overshirts are fairly an fascinating choice for readers – a means into Saman Amel as a model, and with fairly just a few fascinating personalisation choices. 

My different garments pictured are Edward Inexperienced loafers – the Piccadilly in black London Grain leather-based – worn with a PS cashmere crewneck, a Rubato belt and trousers made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury in Common wool from Harrison’s.