Final yr, I wrote about how considered one of my favorite tailors in Milan – Ferdinando Caraceni – was closing. It was an attention-grabbing article in regards to the challenges of working a bespoke tailor immediately, however unhappy for all the purchasers that had constructed up a relationship with F Caraceni through the years. 

One buyer, Andrew, talked on that article about looking for another, and trying to Tommy & Giulio Caraceni in Rome as a risk, following our article on them. 

Since then, Andrew has had a number of issues made, and been more than happy with them. They’re not precisely the identical as his previous tailor (the 2 are a part of the identical Caraceni world, however not just lately associated) however that’s neither good nor dangerous. They definitely appeared to current a extremely efficient and classy different for that Milanese look. 

I requested Andrew to mirror on his expertise with T&G Caraceni, and the items he has had made, so others may take into account whether or not it’s a very good different for them. 

Andrew’s first expertise in Rome was a really constructive one: “I’ve by no means been to a tailor that did a greater first becoming than T&G,” he says. “The primary becoming of the primary jacket they made was near excellent, with only some tiny issues to regulate. 

“One was the size of the left sleeve. Someway tailors all the time get that incorrect and make it a bit too quick at first. This clearly is not an enormous deal however it’s unusual that someway each tailor I’ve been to will get this incorrect. 

“The very fact the fittings went so nicely gave me numerous confidence that I used to be in good fingers. In direction of the top this was a difficulty with Nicoletta [at Ferdinando Caraceni]. There are a number of jackets I most likely had 4 fittings on, which is unusual when the final was the fifteenth jacket they made for me. I believe it was most likely as a consequence of lack of skilled employees and an excessive amount of work for them at that time.”

Because the T&G items began to be accomplished, Andrew started to match the model of each homes:

“Each fits are supposed to make a person look his greatest, and the lapels of each the double-breasted and single-breasted are fairly comparable. The DB lapel has that good olive-shaped sweep, whereas the SB has a little bit of stomach. The lapel of each my SBs is round 9-9.5cm. I have not measured DB however it might be very near the identical. 

“The Ferdinando jacket has a little bit of a ‘stronger’ and extra dramatic look, with extra pronounced shoulders, a bit extra drape, barely extra stomach on the lapels, and might have the tendency to look a bit boxy (as a result of shoulders). 

“The T&G jacket is has a ‘longer’ look I believe, which is especially noticeable within the DB. That is created by barely much less pronounced shoulders, a better match (much less drape), a barely larger arm gap, and a little bit softer building. 

“For the SB, I all the time ordered two button with Nicoletta whereas T&G’s home model is 3-roll-2. The primary purpose I by no means ordered 3-roll-2 with Nicoletta is that I by no means appreciated how they minimize and ironed them. The roll of the lapel was very excessive, which considerably shortened the lapels. T&G iron their 3-roll-2 just about precisely like a two button, which creates a for much longer line within the lapel.”

Under is a 3-roll-2 swimsuit made for Andrew. You possibly can see items from F Caraceni on Andrew’s reader profile and on the items they have made for me. 

“A very powerful distinction between the 2 by way of home model is that the rollino of the T&G shoulder makes use of a bit much less padding and extends barely past the wearer’s pure shoulder, whereas the Ferdinando rollino makes use of extra padding and extends additional,” continues Andrew. 

“T&G’s shoulder has a particular form and line, however it’s not so sturdy as Ferdinando’s. For instance, take a look on the image of Mastroianni’s well-known gabardine swimsuit in Ieri Oggi Domani, which I’m fairly certain they minimize, in comparison with the image of John Stefanidis (in my view, considered one of Nicoletta’s most elegant purchasers ever) under. 

“I’d say that T&G’s look might be a bit extra trendy than Ferdinando’s. Mastroianni’s jacket should be one of the vital stunning fits within the historical past of Italian movie by the way in which.

The ending from each tailors is fairly comparable – in different phrases superb. However T&G is extra inexpensive, maybe partly reflecting the prices in Milan vs Rome. T&G cost €4500 for a swimsuit together with VAT, the place Ferdinando was €6000. 

Andrew additionally highlights some similarities and variations in how the 2 tailors function: “I’d describe Ferdinando and T&G as cousins – there’s a undoubtedly a household resemblance however there are additionally materials variations.

“The similarities are those you talked about in your article on T&G: well-known identify, essential clientele, no trunk reveals, very loyal to their historical past and elegance, classic materials, all manufacturing on web site, comparatively small manufacturing. Nicoletta made about 300 clothes a yr, Andrea says he does round 450. 

“However by way of tradition there’s a fairly completely different feeling. With Nicoletta, I all the time had the impression of somebody trying again on the previous, in direction of a great time (that will or could not have existed) the place everybody went to the tailor and Ferdinando Caraceni had one of the best purchasers of all. 

“T&G feels extra open and ahead trying. I truly first visited in September 2023, once I had a bit of additional time on a enterprise journey to Rome. I ended by to see the bottom ground store and determined to stroll in as a result of, as you identified, the store may be very welcoming. If it weren’t on the bottom ground with the door open (it was a pleasant sunny day, as is so typically the case in Rome) I most likely wouldn’t have gone in. 

“Andrea [below] is comparatively younger and really centered on the way forward for the enterprise. He’s coaching numerous younger folks and never trying again to the times of Agnelli, Mastroianni and the opposite well-known purchasers they’d. This was essential for me as I did not need to undergo the expertise of increase a relationship just for the tailor to shut down a number of years later.”

Lastly, I requested Andrew for some reflections on why this model appeals to him a lot: “I might say that is my view on the Northern Italian industrialist model that has all the time been an enormous affect on me, and was successfully outlined in the article Andreas Weinas did for PS some time again.

“Funnily, I keep in mind mentioning to a buddy once I was 18 or 19, and Pierce Brosnan as James Bond was being dressed by Brioni, that once I had sufficient cash I’d go to Rome and have my fits made there. On the time I did not know the distinction between Brioni and a extra conventional tailor. I suppose I’ve kind of achieved that goal, although with a distinct maker.” 

The garments proven in Andrew’s (consciously industrialist) photos are listed under. Be happy to ask him any questions within the feedback – although I’ll point out right here that he has no expertise of one of the best identified of all Caraceni branches, A Caraceni in Milan, so as to examine with them.

Outfit 1

• T&G Caraceni flannel swimsuit (all tailoring cloths classic, from both of the tailors)
• Poplin shirt from Siniscalchi
• Edward Inexperienced Galway sneakers 
• Cashmere tie from EG Cappelli
• Valextra bag 

Outfit 2

• T&G Caraceni flannel chalk-stripe swimsuit
• Poplin shirt from Siniscalchi
• Wool tie from Cruciani & Bella Rome
• Half brogue oxfords by Stivaleria Mercurio in Rome
• T&G Caraceni covert coat 
• Silk scarf from Petronio 1926 in Milan
• Peccary leather-based gloves (forgotten the maker…)
• Patek Golden Ellipse watch (each outfits)