I used to be introduced up in a non secular household in Buenos Aires. Each Sunday, I’d go to church with my grandma. This image (beneath middle) was taken at my first communion, in 1982. I’d by no means worn a tie earlier than; I believe I had on velvet trousers. Even at age 10, I used to be opinionated about how my household dressed, saying issues like, “Possibly you need to put on that with a jacket.” I additionally paid consideration to what the statues had been sporting, the textures of their clothes and the expressions on their faces. That’s the place my fascination with spiritual iconography got here from. In my house in Paris, I’ve a set of items that belonged to church buildings (beneath backside left). I discovered these [relics] within the basement of a bit of retailer in Puglia, Italy, and was like, “OK, this I would like.” I just like the thriller of issues which have had a life earlier than me.
That is the eating room in my house (above proper). The Nineteen Seventies Brutalist desk is by the American designer Paul Evans. The mirrored mild on the ceiling is by [the Italian designer] Gaetano Sciolari, additionally from the Nineteen Seventies. I discovered the letters “R” and “Y” at a flea market in Paris. They had been a part of a set that spelled “Concord,” however that was too lengthy — and my accomplice’s title is Ryan [Benacer, a stylist and fashion archivist]. In my front room, I’ve a set of mannequins that I gown with the most recent finds for our [clothing] archive. Ryan and I wish to put out three to 4 at a time in order that after we’re having breakfast, I can see, say, a Martin Margiela look subsequent to me. That is a Comme des Garçons look (above high left) from spring 2023; I like how [the designer Rei Kawakubo] combines style and artwork with out concern.
As a young person, I used to be a goth. I beloved the Remedy, after which I turned obsessive about [the Australian dark-wave band] Lifeless Can Dance (above proper). Once I first began desirous about a profession, style felt odd for a man, and I used to be nonetheless discovering my sexuality. I studied structure on the College of Buenos Aires. Once I turned 21, although, I went to London, the place my ardour for clothes actually solidified. I labored as a bartender and saved cash in a sock for 4 years, and ultimately enrolled at Central Saint Martins. That is a glance from my 2002 commencement assortment (above middle), which was impressed by conventional gaucho clothes (above left). My grandmother had quite a lot of ponchos that I used to be focused on; I attempted to herald as a lot craft as potential, to do it the best way the Indigenous Argentines would have performed. I received the prize that yr for greatest ready-to-wear assortment and was provided a spot within the grasp’s program. However then Phoebe Philo, who’d simply taken over at Chloé, referred to as me to be her proper hand for design, and I moved to Paris for the job.
Beginning at Moschino was like leaping right into a pool of chilly water. Once I was approached in December 2023, they had been like, “Are you able to begin tomorrow?” However I’d already deliberate a vacation in Argentina. I stated, “Possibly spending time within the Moschino archive could possibly be sufficient of a set off for me to do it. Let’s go there tomorrow in order that I can provide you a short, after which once I come again in January, let’s see the way it goes.” [Making this collection for fall 2024] felt very spontaneous, and I used to be tremendous pleased with it. This gown (above middle) [incorporates] an paintings by [the brand’s founder] Franco [Moschino] (above left). What I’m studying at Moschino is that I can reproduce any object as an adjunct. I wished the mannequin who opened the present to really feel like a lady who does issues like go to the marketplace for recent greens and bread, so we created three objects: a purse comprised of a fiber that appears like paper, a baguette bag and this celery bag (above proper).
This interview has been edited and condensed.
